Days that start at the jetty.

Thirty-eight steps down from the garden gate to the hotel's own stone jetty, towels and a ladder waiting. The water is clear to the bottom by eight.

Out with Tullio in his wooden gozzo to the caves under Punta Sera, swimming stops on the way and lunch packed by the kitchen.

A gentle walk up through the terraces to the Bellandi family's grove, a tasting of this year's oil and a slow walk back for lunch.

Eleven kilometres there and back along the old coastguard path, with a map drawn by our concierge and a swim at the halfway cove.

Shop the Saturday market with Chef Aurelio, then cook what you bought together in the hotel kitchen and eat it on the terrace.

Our wood-fired sauna in the old boat store, a cold plunge in the sea straight after, and a glass of something warm by the fire.